Zenith Watches

Zenith: The Movement Collector’s Movement Brand

Zenith doesn’t need a mascot. Or a lifestyle campaign. Or a cartoon collab.
They just made the first fully integrated automatic chronograph movement in 1969 — and then kept improving it for over 50 years.

If you care about real watchmaking — the kind with high-frequency escapements, column wheels, and movements that other brands literally borrowed for decades — Zenith is already on your radar.

If it’s not?
It should be.

Brand History: Swiss Precision, El Primero Legacy

Founded in 1865 by Georges Favre-Jacot in Le Locle, Zenith was one of the earliest brands to embrace vertical integration — everything from design to assembly to regulation all under one roof.

But it was 1969 that locked in their legacy with the launch of the El Primero — the world’s first high-frequency automatic chronograph, beating at 36,000vph (vs. the typical 28,800). It was:

  • Integrated — not a module slapped on an automatic

  • Column wheel controlled — buttery smooth chrono feel

  • High frequency — allowed for timing to 1/10th of a second

  • Compact and elegant — even in an era of chunky competitors

Oh, and they kept the movement alive even when the company tried to shut it down during the Quartz Crisis — literally hiding the plans and tools in an attic to save it.

Today, that movement powers some of the most accurate chronographs in the world — and still makes watch nerds tear up a little.

Collector Highlights: El Primero, Reborn and Beyond

  • El Primero A386 Revival / Chronomaster Original – 38mm, tri-color subdials, and vintage proportions. The collector’s chronograph — hands down.

  • Chronomaster Sport – Modern steel sports chrono with ceramic bezel and 1/10th-second timing. Rolex Daytona vibes, but arguably more interesting from a movement perspective.

  • Defy Skyline – Bold, angular, high-beat, and wildly underappreciated. 1/10th-second constant running subdial. Killer alternative to integrated sports watch hype.

  • Defy Extreme / Zero G / Fusee Tourbillon – Where Zenith shows off. Space-age materials. Skeletonized bridges. Insane complication work. Underrated haute horology.

  • Pilot Type 20 / Big Date Flyback – Oversized, vintage-styled pilot watches with B-Uhr energy and actual flight history.

And of course:
Any vintage El Primero — whether under Zenith’s own name or in watches made for Movado, Ebel… or even Rolex (yep, the Daytona used the El Primero for over a decade).

Why Collectors Should Care

  • One of the most important chronograph movements ever made

  • Still made in-house, still best in class

  • Used by Rolex for years — that should tell you something

  • Strong design identity — especially tri-color chronos and angular Defy cases

  • Extremely good value vs. competitors — especially compared to Daytona, Speedmaster, Royal Oak Chrono

  • Real history, real movements, no hype distractions

If you’re into movements, you’ll love Zenith.
If you’re into flexing? Cool — enjoy your waitlist.

What They’re Making Now: Tech-Driven, Tastefully Sized, and Finally Getting Their Due

Modern Zenith is doing the smart thing — leaning into what they’re good at:

  • El Primero 3600 caliber – 1/10th-second chrono, 60-hour reserve, ultra-accurate

  • Chronomaster Original / Sport – Real movement architecture in everyday wearable packages

  • Defy Skyline / Revival A3642 / 21 – Old-school shape, modern power reserve, unique timing displays

  • Pilot Big Date Flyback – New 42.5mm tool chrono with insane flyback speed and bold typeface

  • Boutique and LE drops – Often with cool dials (lapis, panda, “shadow” titanium), but always rooted in core designs

They’re not chasing trends. They’re just making excellent watches that happen to outperform the competition.

Fed’s Take

Zenith is one of the best movement houses that people still weirdly sleep on.

I’ve sold Chronomaster Originals to collectors who already owned a Daytona — and they admitted the Zenith was technically more interesting. I’ve had Defy skeletons on the wrist that looked like a Genta design with more horsepower. And vintage El Primeros? Chef’s kiss.

These watches feel like they were built by watchmakers — not marketers.
And that’s getting rarer by the day.

Movement-First. History-Backed. Chrono-Killer Value.

If you want a brand with real mechanical chops, vintage pedigree, and a modern catalog that actually delivers,
Zenith should absolutely be on your list.

Delray Watch frequently sources Zenith watches — especially El Primero Chronomaster, Defy, and vintage references.

Check out our current inventory and remember if you have a Zenith you’re ready to sell or trade – reach out. We’re always buying. 

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