Roger Dubuis Watches

Roger Dubuis: Haute Horology on Horsepower and Adrenaline

If Patek is a diplomat and AP is an architect, Roger Dubuis is the guy who shows up in a Lamborghini with the doors up and a twin-tourbillon

movement on the wrist.

This isn’t traditional Swiss watchmaking. It’s Geneva Seal-level mechanics wrapped in sci-fi skeletons, carbon fiber barrels, and case sizes that

double as conversation starters. You don’t buy Roger Dubuis to blend in — you buy it because no other haute horology brand builds like this, wears

like this, or looks remotely like this.

Brand History: Built by a Watchmaker Who Could Do It All — Then Chose to Do It Loud

Roger Dubuis (the man) was a watchmaker at Patek Philippe for decades, specializing in complications and service. In 1995, he launched his own

brand with the help of designer Carlos Dias, and together they created a company that would do the unthinkable:

  • Combine Geneva Seal-certified movements with insane skeleton architecture

  • Launch tourbillons not as delicate dress watches, but as aggressive design statements

  • Offer double tourbillons, minute repeaters, and perpetuals in cases made of carbon, ceramic, and EON gold

Today, Roger Dubuis is part of the Richemont Group, but still operates its own fully integrated manufacture in Geneva — one of the few brands

producing every Geneva Seal component in-house.

Collector Highlights: Loud Complications, Unapologetic Design

  • Excalibur Skeleton Double Tourbillon – The flagship. Twin flying tourbillons, star bridge, architectural finishing, and the kind of wrist presence that makes a Royal Oak look shy.

  • Excalibur Spider – A deconstructed version of the Excalibur, often in forged carbon, with openworked everything. Looks like it belongs on a concept car dashboard.

  • Knights of the Round Table Series – Yes, real sculpted knights. Yes, a stone mosaic dial. Yes, it’s real. No, it’s not subtle. Yes, collectors love them.

  • Velvet Collection – Their most classically styled line, focused on high jewelry and women’s watches — still mechanically interesting, still hand-finished.

  • Pulsion / Hommage / Monégasque (early collections) – If you’re a Dubuis nerd, these are the legacy references. Some have Geneva Seal calibers with rare complications that fly under the radar.

Every Roger Dubuis movement is Geneva Seal certified, which means top-tier finishing standards on every visible component — polished angles,

chamfered bridges, mirror-finished screw heads, all done by hand.

Why Collectors Should Care

  • Geneva Seal across the board — finishing at the highest Swiss level

  • Own manufacture — full control over movement, case, and design

  • Wildly original design language — not another vintage homage

  • Low production volume — often under 4,000 pieces per year

  • Ultra-modern use of materials — carbon, titanium, ceramic, CCF (composite carbon fiber)

  • Engineered and worn like mechanical art — this is haute horology with a racing soul

If you’re into tech-forward design, mechanical transparency, and modern complication architecture, Roger Dubuis belongs in your box.

What They’re Making Now: Lamborghini Partnerships, Tourbillons for the Track

Under current creative direction, Roger Dubuis leans hard into motorsport-meets-watchmaking:

  • Excalibur Spider Lamborghini Editions – Built to mirror Lambo V10/V12 architecture, often with “engine block” bridges and color-matched cases

  • Hyper Horology Lab pieces – Experimental tourbillon skeletons in materials like SMC carbon, EON gold, or ceramized titanium

  • Single and double tourbillons — all Geneva Seal, all in signature skeleton bridges

  • Collaborations with Pirelli, Lamborghini, and other speed-driven brands

These aren’t conservatively finished watches. They’re bold, technical showcases for a collector who’s bored with round cases and conservative dials.

Fed’s Take

Roger Dubuis is one of the only brands that can flex as hard as Richard Mille — and still bring the Geneva Seal to the party.

I’ve sold Skeleton Double Tourbillons that wear like wrist-mounted engines. I’ve handled Excalibur Spiders that look like a concept car crashed into a

cathedral and left a tourbillon behind.

They’re not cheap. They’re not subtle. But they’re not trying to be.

These are for collectors who’ve already got the Sub, the Speedy, and the AP — and now want something that’ll actually feel fun again.

Overbuilt. Overfinished. Underappreciated (For Now).

If you want to wear real high horology without going full cardigan, Roger Dubuis is the brand that proves mechanical mastery doesn’t have to

be quiet.

Delray Watch frequently sources Roger Dubuis watches — especially Excalibur Skeleton, Spider, and legacy Hommage or Pulsion models.

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