Maurice Lacroix Watches

Maurice Lacroix: Swiss Watchmaking with Modern Specs, Underdog Energy

Maurice Lacroix has always been a bit of a curveball brand.
 Not historic. Not hyped. But very often — very well made.

Think of it as modern Swiss mechanical watchmaking done cleanly, with sharp case finishing, strong movements, and design that walks the line between contemporary and classic. It’s not for purists chasing vintage lineage. It’s for collectors who care about value, execution, and wearing something not everyone else has.

If you play it smart, Maurice Lacroix can be one of the best under-the-radar plays in Swiss watchmaking.

Brand History: Young, Independent, and Surprisingly Capable

Maurice Lacroix was officially founded in 1975, making it a baby compared to most big Swiss names. But unlike a lot of microbrands, they weren’t just slapping together catalog parts.

They had roots in Desco von Schulthess, a Zurich-based company with a long history in watchmaking and distribution. By the ‘90s, Maurice Lacroix had set up its own manufacture in Saignelégier, producing everything from base movements to full in-house complications — especially retrogrades, chronographs, and even some tourbillons.

So while the name might not carry 19th-century weight, the technical chops are very real.

Collector Highlights: The Real Hits

  • Aikon Automatic – The brand’s modern integrated sports watch. Think Royal Oak/Nautilus vibes, but priced around $2K. Great case finishing, solid bracelet, and sharp proportions. Also comes in skeleton and chronograph variants.

  • Aikon Master Grand Date / Skeleton – Higher-end Aikon models with openworked dials, retrograde indicators, and custom in-house movements. Much more than just an homage.

  • Pontos Chronograph – One of the best-value automatic chronographs in the game. Well-sized, sporty without being overdesigned.

  • Masterpiece Retrograde – Big complications, serious finishing, and a showcase of what the brand is capable of when it stretches its legs.

  • Calendrier Retrograde / Double Retrograde – Signature pieces for Maurice Lacroix in the 2000s–2010s. Beautiful dials, quirky layouts, solid complication architecture.

Movements range from decorated Sellita and Valjoux bases (in Aikon and Pontos) to proprietary and manufacture calibers developed in-house — especially in the Masterpiece collection.

Why Collectors Should Care

  • Strong finishing for the price point — especially on cases and bracelets

  • Underrated movement work — especially in Masterpiece models

  • Legit in-house manufacturing capabilities

  • One of the better alternatives to overhyped integrated sports watches

  • Resale is soft = value is strong — great watches often fly under $2K pre-owned

Maurice Lacroix is a great play for collectors who care about fit, finish, and spec over nameplate hype.

What They’re Making Now: Aikon-Led, Masterpiece-Driven

Maurice Lacroix today is clearly divided into two audiences:

  1. Aikon Line – Integrated bracelet sports watches in automatic, skeleton, and chrono formats. Killer entry point. These are everywhere — and for good reason.

  2. Masterpiece Collection – High-end mechanical complications like moonphase, triple retrograde, and skeletonized movements. Lower production. Higher polish. Serious horological firepower.

The Pontos and Eliros lines offer additional options in the dress/sport categories, mostly Sellita-powered, and often excellent daily wearers.

Fed’s Take

Maurice Lacroix is one of the most unfairly dismissed brands in the Swiss mid-tier.

The Aikon is a legit watch — great bracelet, solid movement, and strong wrist presence. The Masterpiece Retrogrades? Better finished than watches twice the price. And I’ve handled Pontos chronos that feel like they should cost $4,000 — not $1,500.

No, it’s not vintage. No, it doesn’t have a big-name heritage.
 But for guys who appreciate quality and aren’t chasing Instagram likes?
 Maurice Lacroix is a killer buy.

Sharp Design. Honest Specs. Collector Value — If You Know What to Look For.

If you want a modern Swiss watch that doesn’t feel like a compromise, Maurice Lacroix belongs in the rotation.

Delray Watch frequently sources Maurice Lacroix watches — especially Aikon models, Pontos chronographs, and Masterpiece retrograde complications.

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