Mathey Tissot Watches

Mathey-Tissot: Not That Tissot — But Not Worth Ignoring Either

Let’s clear this up from the jump:
 Mathey-Tissot is not the same brand as Tissot (the Swatch Group giant).
 Different company. Different history. Different game entirely.

That said? Mathey-Tissot actually has some real vintage credibility — especially in chronographs. It’s one of those brands that’s bounced between relevance and obscurity, but occasionally punches way above its name recognition.

If you know where to look, you’ll find Valjoux-powered vintage chronos, mid-century military watches, and some modern designs with decent value — though the brand’s current output is mostly quartz-heavy and off the radar.

Brand History: Swiss-Made, Val-de-Travers Roots, Military Ties

Founded in 1886 in Les Ponts-de-Martel, Switzerland, Mathey-Tissot built its early reputation as a maker of precision repeater watches and chronographs. They weren’t a marketing powerhouse, but they supplied watches to military clients, including the U.S. Army during both World Wars, and earned a rep as a reliable movement assembler and private-label partner.

They produced for others, co-signed dials, and quietly worked behind the scenes — kind of like a Swiss OEM before that was a buzzword.

By the 1940s–70s, Mathey-Tissot was known for its chronographs, often housing Valjoux 92 and 23 series movements — the same kind of internals found in early Heuers and Rolex Daytonas.

Post-quartz crisis? They faded hard.
 Today, the brand name is still active, producing mostly affordable quartz and mechanical watches, with a small but loyal niche audience.

Collector Highlights: Vintage Chronos and Military Cool

  • Valjoux 23 / 92 Chronographs (1940s–60s) – Clean, elegant, two-register chronos with beautiful dial work and top-tier movements. These are the real collector draws.

  • U.S. Military-Issued Watches – Some Mathey-Tissot watches were issued or sold to American service members, including chronographs and simple three-hand models.

  • Valjoux 726 / 7734 Models – 1970s chronos with beefier case shapes, colorful dial variants, and reliable movement architecture.

  • Triple Calendar Moonphase Pieces – Classic calendar complications in dressy formats — often confused with vintage Vacheron/Tissot at a glance.

  • Private Label Co-Signed Dials – You’ll find Mathey-Tissot movements inside other-branded watches, especially in the vintage world.

These watches are often underpriced for the quality of the movement — especially in clean condition with original dials.

Why Collectors Should Care

  • Legit vintage chronograph heritage — especially in Valjoux calibers

  • Shared components and quality with better-known brands of the era

  • Historical military connection — especially with the U.S. market

  • Underappreciated value in vintage collecting

  • Not to be confused with modern department-store quartz offerings — buy vintage, not current

This isn’t a flex brand. It’s a deep-cut vintage chrono play for movement nerds and design hounds.

What They’re Making Now: Mostly Quartz, Occasionally Interesting

The current Mathey-Tissot lineup includes:

  • Heritage reissues (loosely based on past designs)

  • Modern automatic chronographs using off-the-shelf mechanical movements

  • Affordable quartz models in dive, dress, and field styles

The quality today is hit-or-miss — serviceable, but mostly fashion-tier production for entry-level buyers.

The collector takeaway? Skip the modern catalog. Hunt the vintage pieces.

Fed’s Take

Mathey-Tissot is one of those brands you almost forget about — until you find a clean Valjoux 23 chrono with that name on the dial. Then you remember exactly why it matters.

I’ve handled Mathey chronos that felt every bit as well-built as early Heuers. I’ve sold WWII-era field watches that were rugged, accurate, and cool without trying. And yeah, I’ve also seen more than a few modern quartz pieces that felt like gas station giveaways.

But if you stay vintage?
 There are still some absolute winners hiding behind this name.

Not That Tissot. But Still Worth a Spot in the Watch Box.

If you’re collecting for movement, value, and history — and you’re not afraid of a brand with uneven modern output — Mathey-Tissot might surprise you.

Delray Watch occasionally sources vintage Mathey-Tissot watches — especially Valjoux chronographs and mid-century military pieces.

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