Harry Winston Watches

Harry Winston: Diamonds First, But Don’t Sleep on the Movements

Let’s get something out of the way — yes, it’s that Harry Winston.
 The “King of Diamonds.” The guy with the red carpet legacy. The brand that moves 100-carat stones like they’re cufflinks.

But what most people don’t realize is that Harry Winston also builds some of the most forward-thinking, mechanically wild watches in haute horology — especially once you dig into the Opus series, the Project Z line, and anything marked with a tourbillon.

If you’re dismissing them as “just a jewelry house,” you’re missing one of the most creative and complicated corners of modern watchmaking.

Brand History: From 5th Avenue to the Top of the Horology Pyramid

Founded in 1932, Harry Winston built a reputation as New York’s top jeweler, supplying diamonds to royals, celebrities, and old-money power players. For decades, the brand focused on high jewelry and bespoke pieces.

But in 1989, Harry Winston entered the world of watches — starting with jewelry-forward pieces and eventually leveling up into serious mechanical territory, especially after the early 2000s when they launched the Opus series.

Fast forward to today: the brand is owned by Swatch Group, which means they now have access to the same R&D muscle as Breguet, Blancpain, and Omega — and it shows in their most recent releases.

Collector Highlights: More Than Meets the Eye

  • Opus Series (1–14) – The crown jewel (pun intended). Annual collaborations with the world’s best independent watchmakers — F.P. Journe, Urwerk, Vianney Halter, Christophe Claret, Greubel Forsey, MB&F, and more. Each Opus is a mechanical mic drop.

  • Project Z Series – A sport-luxury line made of Zalium (a lightweight zirconium alloy), often featuring retrograde displays, off-center dials, and quirky case design. Totally unique, totally Harry Winston.

  • Histoire de Tourbillon – Tourbillons pushed to the limit: triple-axis, double tourbillons, suspended escapements — these are engineering showcases meant for collectors who are way past entry-level complications.

  • Ocean Series – Often combines chronograph, retrograde, or perpetual calendar complications with Harry Winston’s signature dial symmetry and finishing. Underrated and seriously well-built.

  • Midnight Collection – Dressier, cleaner, and still packing plenty of mechanical quality — especially in limited editions or moonphase models.

Oh — and if you’re looking for diamond-set watches that still house real movements, Harry Winston is in a class of its own.

Why Collectors Should Care

  • The Opus line is legendary — some of the most innovative watches of the 21st century came from this series.

  • Built in partnership with indie greats — F.P. Journe, Urwerk, Greubel Forsey, and more.

  • Unusual materials — Zalium, platinum, and incredible gem-setting expertise.

  • High-end complications — from retrograde seconds to multi-axis tourbillons.

  • Design language that’s bold but refined — never boring, never derivative.

And now that the brand is under the Swatch Group umbrella, quality control and movement development are stronger than ever.

What They’re Making Now: Controlled, Creative, and Still Serious

Harry Winston today is focused on three major areas:

  • High Jewelry Watches – Full pavé, rare stones, and limited-production quartz or mechanical models designed for VIP clients. Think: diamonds before dials.

  • High Complication Mechanical Pieces – Including Histoire de Tourbillon, Opus 14 (and upcoming Opus 15), and the continued Project Z line.

  • Elegant Dress and Sport Hybrids – Especially in the Ocean and Midnight collections, blending complications and classic design with real wrist appeal.

Production remains low-volume, and many pieces are sold direct to collectors or through Harry Winston boutiques. That scarcity is real — and part of the appeal.

Fed’s Take

Harry Winston is what happens when a jewelry house decides to do watchmaking the right way.

Instead of outsourcing fluff or stamping logos on third-party cases, they went all-in: collaborating with the best independents, building in-house know-how, and pushing design in directions no one else was exploring.

I’ve handled Opus pieces that are genuinely mind-blowing. I’ve seen Project Z chronos that wear better than anything in the sport-luxury category under $20K. And their tourbillons? Unapologetically elite.

If you're the kind of collector who respects creativity, finishing, and genuine innovation — Harry Winston has earned a place on your radar.

Haute Horology with Hollywood Taste

Yes, they can bedazzle a watch. But when Harry Winston turns its focus to movement and mechanics?
 They’re not playing catch-up. They’re setting the pace.

Delray Watch occasionally sees rare Harry Winston pieces — especially from the Project Z, Ocean, and Opus collections.

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