Gruen Watches

Gruen Watches

Gruen is one of those names that used to mean everything — and now mostly lives in the vintage dealer's case, waiting to be rediscovered by the right kind of collector.

If you’re into American watch history, mid-century design, or elegant vintage form factors that still wear beautifully today, Gruen is a goldmine.

A Little History

Gruen was founded in 1894 by German-born watchmaker Dietrich Gruen, originally in Ohio. The company would go on to become one of the biggest

American watch brands of the early 20th century, producing everything from precision pocket watches to Art Deco wristwatches.

They were pioneers in caliber development, responsible for the Curvex — one of the first truly curved wristwatches with a movement designed to

follow the arc of the wrist. Gruen built movements both in the U.S. and at their Swiss factory in Biel, blending American industrial scale with Swiss mechanical refinement.

By the 1950s, Gruen had supplied watches to presidents, war efforts, and even NASA engineers. But like many American brands, they couldn’t survive

the quartz crisis. The name eventually fell into dormancy — and later licensing limbo.

Today, only the vintage pieces hold serious collector interest — but oh, are they worth digging for.

What Collectors Love

Gruen has a deep, fascinating catalog full of design-forward pieces that punch way above their vintage price points.

Highlights include:

  • Curvex — the flagship: a curved rectangular case with a matching curved movement. Still one of the most elegant vintage watches ever made.

  • Veri-Thin — slim dress watches with small seconds and gorgeous dials, often gold-filled or solid gold.

  • Airflight — a pilot’s watch from the '50s with a rotating hour disc that changes at noon (12–23 hour layout).

  • Precision and Autowind models — automatic and manual-wind three-handers with clean mid-century vibes.

Expect cases in 14k, 10k gold-filled, or stainless, with Swiss or U.S.-built movements, often hand-wound with soft ticks and long lifespans if serviced.

Why Gruen Still Deserves a Spot

Because the design is timeless, the quality is real, and the prices are still accessible — especially compared to contemporaries like Hamilton, Elgin, or Bulova.

There’s a refinement to Gruen watches — the font choices, the handset shapes, the case finishing — that makes them feel more European than most

American brands of the time. And the Curvex? Still unmatched if you want a rectangular watch that actually hugs the wrist.

If you’re building a vintage collection with taste — not hype — Gruen belongs.

What’s Out There Now

Everything Gruen worth collecting is vintage — mostly from the 1930s to the 1960s.

You’ll find:

  • Curvex models — in both men’s and ladies’ sizes, with radium or tritium lume, applied markers, and sub-seconds

  • Slim gold dress watches — with amazing mid-century typography

  • Oddball models like the Airflight or jump-hour variants (rare but fun)

  • Pocket watches and military-issued pieces with clean dials and robust movements

Prices vary widely, but great pieces can still be found under $500 — or much more if you're chasing pristine examples with original boxes and papers.

Fed’s Take

Gruen is one of those brands that vintage guys quietly obsess over.

The Curvex, in particular, is a sleeper grail. I’ve handled a few in the shop and they always feel just right on the wrist — like they were made to

disappear under a cuff, then catch the light when you move.

If you’re into vintage and want something with real American-Swiss heritage, timeless proportions, and tons of character? Gruen delivers.

Check Out Our Gruen Inventory

Delray Watch is always on the lookout for unique Gruen watches — especially Curvex, Veri-Thin, and Airflight models.

If you have a Gruen watch you’re ready to sell or trade – reach out. We’re always buying.

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