Glycine Watches

Glycine Watches

Glycine is one of those brands that doesn’t need hype — it’s got history.

Before the GMT craze, before “pilot watch” became a marketing term, Glycine was already building the Airman. A real tool for real flyers. And while the brand’s gone through changes,

the DNA is still there — rugged, purpose-built, and just weird enough to be cool.

A Little History

Founded in 1914 in Bienne, Switzerland, Glycine spent its early years building precision timepieces with in-house calibers, often in compact dress formats.

But in 1953, they launched the Airman — a 24-hour dial pilot’s watch with a rotating bezel and hacking seconds. It quickly became a favorite among military aviators

especially during the Vietnam era. Glycine followed it with mechanical divers, field watches, and tooly automatics throughout the ‘60s and ‘70s.

Ownership shifted in the 2000s, and in 2016, Glycine was acquired by Invicta — a move that raised some eyebrows. But the core models survived, and today’s Glycines

still deliver legit heritage and wearability at value prices.

What Collectors Love

Collectors who know Glycine go straight for the Airman — and for good reason.

Highlights include:

  • Airman No. 1 — the original 24-hour GMT pilot’s watch, complete with friction-lock bezel and hacking system.

  • Airman 18, 42, and 46mm variants — available in both 24-hour and 12-hour formats, often with vintage-correct styling.

  • Combat Sub — an affordable, well-built diver with classic proportions and a cult following.

  • Incursore and KMU 48 — big-cased field and trench-style watches with Panerai vibes and Swiss movements.

Movements are usually ETA-based (especially the GL224 and GL293, derived from 2824/2893 platforms), with some occasional Sellita usage. Cases are solid, bezels are functional

and the dials are typically clean, legible, and utilitarian.

Why Glycine Deserves Respect

Because they were doing GMT tool watches decades before it was cool — and their watches were actually used by the military, not just styled after it.

The Airman was worn by US pilots in Vietnam, built with feedback from aviators, and tweaked to be read at a glance in a pressurized cockpit. That’s not a backstory

— that’s a résumé.

And in a world where everyone’s chasing vintage-styled GMTs, Glycine still sells the real deal, with actual 24-hour dials and rotating bezels. No fluff. No $5K price tag.

What’s Out There Now

Glycine’s current catalog includes:

  • Airman Vintage and Contemporary models — ranging from 36mm to 46mm, with 12/24-hour layouts, GMT hand options, and sapphire crystals

  • Combat Sub — a 42mm diver with 200m WR, ceramic bezel options, and military-color dial variants

  • Field watches and oversized mechanicals — from 40mm to 48mm

Pre-owned values are excellent — especially for older pre-Invicta Airmans, which are becoming increasingly collectible. Even modern Combat Subs offer

phenomenal specs per dollar.

Fed’s Take

I’ve always had a soft spot for Glycine. The Airman is one of the most slept-on GMT watches out there — especially if you like a true 24-hour dial.

I’ve sold plenty of Combat Subs, and they’re just solid watches. Great proportions. Great legibility. You get a lot of real history and reliability without having to sell your Rolex.

If you want a pilot watch with real aviation roots, or a diver that feels like a tool and not a fashion piece, Glycine delivers. Quietly. Consistently. And affordably.

Check Out Our Glycine Inventory

Delray Watch is always on the lookout for unique Glycine watches — especially Airman, Combat Sub, and pre-Invicta models.

If you have a Glycine watch you’re ready to sell or trade – reach out. We’re always buying.

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