Dubey and Schaldenbrand Watches

Dubey & Schaldenbrand: Deco Dials, Jumping Chronos, and Collector Cred for the Deep-Cut Crowd

You don’t see Dubey & Schaldenbrand in ad campaigns. You don’t see them on celebrity wrists. But pop open a vintage collector’s watch box, and there’s a good chance one’s in there — ticking quietly with a tonneau case, Breguet numerals, and a little smugness.

This is neo-vintage Swiss horology, done with design flair and mechanical respect, and delivered with just enough weird to keep things interesting.

Never mainstream. Never mass-market. And for a while, that was the point.

Brand History: From Valjoux to Revival

Founded in 1946 by Georges Dubey and René Schaldenbrand, the brand got its start building mechanical chronographs and split-second complications — including a few early patents for the "Index Mobile" flyback chronograph, which allowed for mechanical split-time timing without full reset. Cool stuff.

Then the Quartz Crisis hit, and like a lot of good names, Dubey & Schaldenbrand went dormant.

Fast forward to the 1990s, when the brand was revived by Cinette Robert, a woman with serious industry chops, access to a stash of NOS vintage movements, and a plan: case these beautiful old calibers in bold Art Deco-inspired designs, and bring Dubey back to life.

For a while? It worked. Enthusiasts loved the mix of historical movement architecture and modernized cushion cases.

Collector Highlights: Neo-Vintage Looks With Mechanical Cred

  • Aerochronograph – Based on vintage Valjoux and Landeron calibers, often with stylized pushers, stepped cases, and multi-register layouts.

  • Spiral / Gran’Chrono – Big, bold numerals, tonneau-shaped cases, and dials that feel lifted from the Roaring 20s. These are dressy pieces with flair.

  • Index Mobile Chronographs – Mechanically fascinating and visually distinctive — a real flex for movement nerds.

  • Coeur Blanc / Lady / Art Deco models – Jewelry-forward designs with guilloché dials, engraved cases, and wild fonts. Very niche. Very collectible in the right circles.

  • NOS Movement Pieces – Some models feature actual vintage hand-wound calibers from the '40s–'60s, restored and cased up decades later.

Many were limited production, often with hand-finishing and a collector-first mindset.

Why Collectors Should Care

  • Independent spirit – Before that was cool, Dubey was doing their own thing.

  • NOS movement usage – A rare opportunity to wear real vintage inside a modern case.

  • Art Deco DNA – If you like numerals, curves, and vintage flair, this is your jam.

  • Split-second timing tech – The Index Mobile isn’t just a gimmick. It’s horological history.

  • Pre-owned value – These watches sell for a fraction of what they should, given the movement quality and originality.

They’re not for everyone — but that’s kind of the point. If you want to look like everyone else, go buy a Daytona. If you want to stand out quietly, Dubey’s your move.

What’s Happening Now: A Brand in Stasis

As of now, Dubey & Schaldenbrand is essentially dormant, with very limited (if any) new releases. The company’s official site has gone quiet, and most inventory trades hands on the secondary market.

But for collectors who know how to spot quality — or who want a watch that feels rare without the auction-house markup — the brand still offers some of the best sleeper value in indie Swiss collecting.

Fed’s Take

I’ve always had a soft spot for Dubey & Schaldenbrand.

They’re not loud. They’re not trendy. But they’ve always stayed true to a certain aesthetic — that Deco-glamour-meets-watchmaking-nerd sweet spot.

I’ve seen Spirals that wear like vintage Franck Muller, Index Mobiles that spark real conversation, and hand-wound chronographs that run like top-tier Valjoux restorations — because that’s what they are.

If you’re into movement finishing, vintage case shapes, or just want something a little left of center, Dubey delivers.

Not Flashy. Not Hype. Just Different.

If you’re the kind of collector who hunts for forgotten names, real history, and quietly killer design — Dubey & Schaldenbrand might just be your next favorite watch.

Delray Watch has a rotating selection of pre-owned Dubey & Schaldenbrand watches — pieces you won’t find sitting in mall boutiques or flexing on billboards.

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