Armand Nicolet Watches

Armand Nicolet

Old-school Swiss charm. New-school collector value.

Armand Nicolet is one of those brands that flies way under the radar — and honestly, that’s kind of unfair. Because behind the name is real Swiss watchmaking, surprisingly

good finishing, and a few sleeper hits that serious collectors quietly snap up when no one’s looking. They’re not loud. They’re not trendy. They’re just solid.

Brand History

The story starts back in 1875, when Armand Nicolet opened his atelier in Tramelan, Switzerland — a sleepy little village with big horological roots. For most of the 20th century

the company specialized in movement finishing and ébauche decoration, serving as a behind-the-scenes player for better-known brands.

Then came the quartz crisis, and like many independents, Nicolet hit pause. But in the early 2000s, the brand was revived — this time with a new twist: take those leftover

vintage movements from the mid-century golden age… and build modern watches around them.

Yes, really. NOS (new old stock) movements from the '50s and '60s, cleaned up, modified, and cased in fresh designs. That’s not marketing fluff — it’s what they actually did.

Collector Highlights

Armand Nicolet splits its offerings between modern automatic models and their signature "O.H.M." (Original Historical Movement) series. The latter is where the magic happens.

  • L06, L09, L15 Series – These feature restored vintage calibers (often old Venus, UT, or FHF movements) that have been hand-finished, adjusted, and displayed through open casebacks. Limited production. Legit collector interest.

  • M02 and J09 Series – Sportier, modern pieces with Swiss automatic movements (usually ETA or Sellita), great finishing, and clean dials. A lot of watch for the price.

  • Chronograph References – Some of the vintage movement chronos are especially interesting, especially when fitted with rare cam-lever or column wheel calibers.

You’ll find designs ranging from classic dress to beefy sport, but the craftsmanship is consistent: sharp casework, textured dials, applied indices, and movements that

deserve the display caseback.

Why Collectors Care

Because Armand Nicolet offers one of the best-kept secrets in modern Swiss watchmaking: real-deal mechanical heritage — often inside the case, not just on the spec sheet.

When you pick up an O.H.M. piece, you’re not just buying a nice-looking watch. You’re strapping on a hand-finished movement from the 1950s that someone brought back to life.

And the modern stuff? It’s clean, reliable, and thoughtfully designed. Think: Oris-level build with a little more flair — and often, a better price.

Modern Watches & Current State

Armand Nicolet is still producing watches today in small batches, with the same hybrid approach: a mix of contemporary Swiss autos and vintage-movement limited editions.

They’re not a hype brand. You won’t see them on billboards or next to influencers. But that’s a good thing. Because it means the value is still there for the collectors who

actually care about the watch — not just the name on the dial.

Fed’s Take

I’ve bought and sold a bunch of Armand Nicolet watches over the years — and honestly, they’ve all impressed me more than I expected.

Especially the ones with vintage calibers inside. The finishing is sharp, the wearability is great, and they’ve got that quiet flex appeal. Not trying to be the loudest in

the room… just the most interesting.

If you’re tired of paying for marketing and want something that actually feels like old-school Swiss craftsmanship? This is a solid move.

Add Armand Nicolet to Your Collection

Delray Watch is always on the lookout for Armand Nicolet watches — especially O.H.M. models, chronographs, and early limited production pieces.

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