Vertex Watches

Vertex Watches

Vertex is British military watchmaking, reborn with purpose.

One of the legendary “Dirty Dozen” brands from WWII, Vertex is back — and not just as a heritage tribute, but as a serious, small-batch producer of modern mechanical

watches built to wear like a mission tool.

If you like your watches with a little grit, a lot of lume, and real historical backbone? Vertex belongs in your rotation.

A Little History

Originally founded in 1916 by Claude Lyons, Vertex built its name in the early 20th century supplying watches and timing devices to the British Armed Forces.

Their most famous contribution? In the 1940s, Vertex was one of the twelve manufacturers contracted by the MoD to produce the iconic “W.W.W.” watches — the rugged, legible

no-nonsense field watches that became known as the Dirty Dozen.

The brand shuttered in the 1970s during the quartz crisis… but was revived in 2016 by Lyons’ great-grandson, Don Cochrane, with a mission to rebuild the brand

from its military roots — focusing on tool watches, British design, and Swiss movements.

What Collectors Love

Modern Vertex watches are clean, tough, and deeply respectful of the brand’s WW2 history — with upgraded materials, stealth-modern builds, and tight tolerances.

Fan-favorite models include:

  • M100 — the modern reimagining of the Dirty Dozen original: 40mm case, matte black dial, Arabic numerals, and broad arrow at 12. Powered by the ETA 7001 hand-wound movement.

  • MP45 — monopusher chronograph with either manual or automatic Swiss movement, asymmetric case, and classic mil-chrono layout

  • M60 Aqualion — Vertex’s first dive watch: 600m WR, helium escape valve, ceramic bezel, and more lume than your flashlight

  • Bronze editions — limited runs of M100 and M60 in patina-prone bronze with killer green dials

  • Limited LE runs — often numbered, sometimes only sold via referral or application

Most models are built in Switzerland with ETA or Sellita movements, using sapphire crystals, solid steel or bronze cases, and Swiss Super-LumiNova, often applied

fully across the numerals for nighttime legibility you won’t believe.

Why Vertex Deserves a Spot

Because it’s one of the only military heritage brands doing it right — not just coasting on nostalgia, but honoring the original intent with proper materials, proportions, and field-watch specs.

Vertex watches feel like tools — not toys. And they strike a rare balance between collector credibility and wearability. The sizing is modern but not oversized. The dials are

mission-clear. And the builds? They’re made to last, not to impress Instagram.

Plus, the brand keeps distribution tight. Many pieces are sold by referral, not hype drops — so if you know, you know.

What’s Out There Now

Vertex currently produces:

  • M100 / M100B (black DLC) — 40mm hand-wound, broad arrow dial, box crystal

  • MP45 (manual or auto) — 44mm monopusher chronograph, mil-spec inspired

  • M60 Aqualion — 40mm diver, automatic, 600m WR, ceramic bezel

  • Bronze Editions — same specs, warmer feel

  • Straps — military-style rubber, canvas, or handmade leather options

Pricing ranges from $2,800 to $5,500, with some LE models reaching higher on the secondary market. They sell direct via Vertex’s site, often with a vetting or invitation step for flagship models.

Fed’s Take

Vertex is one of the best modern military-inspired brands out there, full stop.

I’ve handled the M100 and M60 — and both feel tight. The matte finishing, the lume, the hand-wound movement — it’s everything you’d want in a field or dive watch, without pretense.

The MP45 mono is a sleeper grail for chrono fans.

If you want a watch that feels built for action, not just admiration, Vertex brings the goods — with British grit and Swiss guts.

Check Out Our Vertex Inventory

Delray Watch is always on the lookout for unique Vertex watches — especially M100 Dirty Dozen tributes, MP45 monopusher chronographs, and M60 dive models in steel or bronze.

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