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Triton is a deep-cut diver’s brand with legit tool watch pedigree — best known for its wild 1960s-era case design, French military roots, and modern-day reissues that stay
true to the original mission: build watches to survive the ocean.
If you’ve ever looked at a vintage Fifty Fathoms and thought, “but make it even more brutalist” — Triton’s your guy.
Triton was originally launched in the 1960s as a dive-focused brand under Jean René Parmentier, with watches built by Dodane — one of the five manufacturers of the French
Type 20 military chronograph. The most famous model was the Triton Spirotechnique, developed for La Spirotechnique, the diving gear company founded by Jacques Cousteau.
The Spirotechnique was built with serious intent: large waterproof case, external locking crown bridge, high-visibility dial, and serious water resistance. These watches
were issued to French military divers, and now rank among the rarest vintage tool watches in the world.
In recent years, Triton has been revived with modern reissues — keeping the angular case shape, left-side crown lock, and purpose-built aesthetic, while upgrading
materials and movement reliability.
Triton sits in the Fifty Fathoms / early Submariner ecosystem, but with more visual edge and military story. Key traits:
Signature models include:
Because it’s one of the most original case designs in dive watch history — and it wasn’t designed to look cool, it was designed to work under pressure.
Triton doesn’t just borrow vintage vibes. It is vintage. And in a market crowded with Sub clones and tired reissues, the crown lock, slab sides, and military DNA make Triton
feel like something purpose-built and unpolished — the way real dive gear should.
If you know, you know.
Vintage and modern Tritons are both desirable — though vintage models are extremely scarce.
Expect:
Pricing ranges from:
Triton is one of the coolest under-the-radar vintage tool watch brands out there.
I’ve handled a few modern Subphotiques — and they’re beefy but wearable. That left-side crown lock is a wild detail you won’t see on anything else. And for the right collector?
A vintage Spirotechnique is grail-tier. French military dive history in a case design that still looks ahead of its time.
If you like your divers with edge, honesty, and actual field use? Triton checks the box.
Delray Watch is always on the lookout for unique Triton watches — especially Spirotechnique vintage divers, Subphotique models, and limited edition modern reissues.
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