Longines Watches

Longines: Swiss Watchmaking Royalty, Without the Price Tag

If you’re building a watch collection and you don’t have a Longines on your radar?
 You’re missing a cornerstone brand with legit horological history, serious vintage pedigree, and some of the best value in modern Swiss mechanical watches — full stop.

Longines isn’t riding on past glory — it’s still building on it.
 And whether you’re into chronographs, dive watches, pilot’s pieces, or vintage-inspired dress watches, Longines probably did it first… and is doing it again (better) for a third of the price.

Brand History: One of the Oldest, and Still One of the Best

Founded in 1832 in Saint-Imier, Longines is one of the oldest continuously operating Swiss watchmakers — and for most of the 20th century, it was a movement manufacturer every bit as important as Omega, Zenith, or Rolex.

They weren’t just assembling watches — they were making in-house calibers, including high-beat chronometers, column-wheel chronographs, and navigation timers for pilots and explorers. The brand was deeply involved in aviation, diving, and sports timing — and held dozens of patents and world records.

Today, Longines is part of the Swatch Group, and while it no longer makes in-house movements, it still delivers refined, exclusive ETA-based calibers with great finishing and specs — and styling that leans into its massive archive in all the right ways.

Collector Highlights: Heritage Done Right

  • Heritage Chronograph 13ZN / Avigation BigEye – Homages to one of the greatest chrono calibers of all time: the original 13ZN. The BigEye is still one of the best pilot-style chronos under $5K.

  • Heritage Classic Sector Dial – Pure 1930s minimalism. Sub-seconds, sector layout, stunning proportions. Collector darling.

  • Legend Diver – Compressor-style diver based on a 1960s model. 42mm case, internal bezel, and one of the best reissues in the game.

  • Spirit Collection – Pilot-inspired daily wearers. Strong lume, COSC-certified movements, modern case specs with vintage DNA.

  • Master Collection – Dressy, slightly conservative, often with moonphases or calendar complications. Clean and versatile.

  • Vintage Longines (30L, 12.68Z, 13ZN, 30CH) – Here’s where the real heads go. Mid-century Longines is collector royalty — with movements and finishing that rival Patek and Vacheron of the same era (no joke).

From a horological standpoint? Longines has receipts.

Why Collectors Should Care

  • 190+ years of continuous production

  • Historical involvement in aviation, diving, navigation, and sports timing

  • Legendary vintage movements — especially the 13ZN and 30CH chronographs

  • Some of the best reissues in the business — not gimmicks, just great design

  • Modern value is exceptional — COSC movements, high finishing, all under $4,000

And here’s the thing: Longines doesn’t try to punch above its weight. It just builds solid watches, beautifully designed, with heritage baked in.

What They’re Making Now: Heritage First, But Still Forward-Looking

Today’s Longines lineup is broken into clean pillars:

  • Heritage Collection – Reissues of iconic watches from the 1930s to 1970s, done with care and modern wearability.

  • Spirit Collection – Pilot-style modern tool watches with chronometer movements.

  • HydroConquest – Their dive watch line. Bold, modern, very wearable, and serious spec.

  • Master / Elegant – Dressier options with great finishing and reasonable case sizes.

  • DolceVita / Evidenza – Rectangular and cushion case styles. Not for everyone, but true to the brand’s vintage archives.

Movements are exclusive ETA-based calibers, often modified for longer power reserves (up to 72 hours), COSC rating, and improved finishing.

Fed’s Take

Longines is a brand I respect more and more the deeper I go into the watch world.

The vintage stuff? Genuinely world-class. I’ve seen 30CH chronos that would embarrass watches five times the price. And the modern reissues? They’re some of the best proportioned, best designed, and best priced heritage pieces on the market.

I’ve sold Legend Divers to guys who swore off big-brand watches. I’ve seen sector-dial Heritage Classics stop collectors in their tracks. And the Spirit series? Quietly one of the best all-purpose tool watch lineups under $3K.

If you care about history, design, and value, Longines is one of the smartest plays in the game.

The Heritage Brand That Still Gets It Right

Not just old. Not just Swiss.
 Longines is what happens when a historic brand keeps showing up — and keeps earning its place.

Delray Watch frequently sources both vintage and modern Longines watches — especially Heritage, Spirit, and collector-grade 13ZN / 30CH chronographs.

Be the first to know when new Longines watches are available - subscribe for insider access here