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Not for the flex. For the function.
Helson isn’t a brand you wear to impress a dinner party. You wear it because you like specs. You like screw-down crowns. You like 1000m water resistance even if
the deepest thing you dive into is a hot tub in Boca. And you know what? That’s exactly why Helson has a cult following among hardcore dive watch guys.
Founded in the early 2010s, Helson is part of the microbrand movement — but with a twist. Instead of chasing minimalist Bauhaus aesthetics or vintage dress vibes
Helson went full tool watch. Every model they released was big, bold, and unapologetically overbuilt.
Headquartered in Hong Kong but using Swiss or Japanese movements, sapphire crystals, and marine-grade steel or bronze, Helson carved out a niche for guys
who wanted serious dive specs without paying luxury prices.
They don’t do fluff. They do depth rating.
Helson has a pretty deep back catalog (pun intended), and many models have become low-key collectible:
Movements are typically ETA 2824, Miyota 9015, or Seiko NH35, depending on the model. All reliable. All easy to service.
Because Helson watches don’t pretend to be something they’re not. They’re built for guys who actually care about lume brightness, bezel action, and whether the case
can survive a drop onto concrete.
They’re also a great alternative to the usual suspects — especially for collectors who want serious dive specs, cool case materials (titanium, bronze, ceramic), and
design that stands out without shouting “mall boutique.”
Plus, they hold up. The resale value’s solid, especially on discontinued models and the bronze-cased Shark Divers with patina.
Helson still operates, still sells direct-to-consumer, and still keeps a tight, no-nonsense catalog. They’re not releasing new models every month. They’re refining what works
and occasionally dropping limited runs.
Customer service? Can be hit or miss depending on who you ask. But the watches themselves? Rock solid.
If you want a spec’d-out diver that looks like it came out of a special forces loadout — this is where you look.
I’ve had Helson watches come across the desk that felt way more expensive than they were. Chunky bezels. Sharp case finishing. Proper lume. They’re not subtle
— but that’s the point.
They remind me of the early days of microbrands, when people actually cared about materials and function — not just fake vintage stories and Kickstarter fluff.
If you want a watch that’ll survive whatever you throw at it (and not cost Rolex money)? Helson’s a smart move.
Delray Watch is always on the lookout for Helson watches — especially Shark Diver, Gauge, and bronze models.
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