GRAFF Watches

GRAFF: Diamonds First, Tourbillons Second — But Don’t Sleep on the Watchmaking

Let’s get one thing straight: GRAFF is a jewelry house.

We’re talking one of the top names in high jewelry globally — the kind of brand that sells 100-carat diamonds to royalty and private clients who don’t blink at eight-figure receipts.

So when they decided to get into watchmaking, they didn’t exactly tiptoe in.

Instead, they built mechanical watches that sparkle harder than most red carpets — often with serious complications, serious materials, and a whole lot of carats.

If you’re the kind of collector who says, “I don’t care about jewelry brands doing watches,” fine. But just know: GRAFF watches are not playing around — and some of them are legit haute horlogerie.

GRAFF: Diamonds First, Tourbillons Second — But Don’t Sleep on the Watchmaking

Let’s get one thing straight: GRAFF is a jewelry house.

We’re talking one of the top names in high jewelry globally — the kind of brand that sells 100-carat diamonds to royalty and private clients who don’t blink at eight-figure receipts.

So when they decided to get into watchmaking, they didn’t exactly tiptoe in.

Instead, they built mechanical watches that sparkle harder than most red carpets — often with serious complications, serious materials, and a whole lot of carats.

If you’re the kind of collector who says, “I don’t care about jewelry brands doing watches,” fine. But just know: GRAFF watches are not playing around — and some of them are legit haute horlogerie.

Brand History: From Mayfair to Micro-Rotors

Founded by Laurence Graff in London in the 1960s, GRAFF became the name in diamonds — famous for cutting and selling some of the world’s most valuable stones. Over time, the brand expanded into watches, starting with high-jewelry quartz pieces, but quickly leveling up into in-house complications, tourbillons, and serious mechanical design.

By the 2010s, GRAFF had invested heavily in Geneva-based manufacturing — even developing proprietary calibers with respected complications manufacturers.

The result? A watch lineup that’s half red carpet, half R&D lab — and priced accordingly.

Collector Highlights: Not Just Bling — Actual Brains Behind the Sparkle

  • MasterGraff Tourbillon – Flying tourbillon. Micro-rotor. Geneva stripes. Sometimes encased in full pavé diamonds, sometimes in titanium. Shockingly legit.

  • GyroGraff – The flagship complication series. Features a 3D moonphase, double-axis tourbillon, and hand-painted enamel dials. Not just showpieces — serious mechanical art.

  • GraffStar Collection – Sport-luxury vibe with faceted bezels mimicking a diamond’s cut. Often seen with full diamond-set cases or meteorite dials.

  • ChronoGraff – Chronograph + power reserve + diamond indexes. Usually automatic, often with modular complications.

  • GMT / Dual Time Pieces – Featuring smart layouts with rotating globes or skeletonized hands. Often overlooked by collectors focused purely on traditional names.

Movements are usually in-house developed or built in collaboration with top-tier Swiss suppliers. Finishing can be shockingly high-end… just hidden behind a wall of diamonds.

Why Collectors Should Actually Care

  • GRAFF owns their diamond game — vertically integrated, from rough to set.

  • They partnered with legit Swiss movement makers — including for tourbillons, minute repeaters, and gyroscopic escapements.

  • Craftsmanship is next level — casework, gem-setting, and dial finishing are insane.

  • Rarity is real — most models are produced in low double-digit quantities or as unique pieces.

  • Pre-owned pricing is often way below retail — making these watches low-key value plays for collectors who don’t mind a little flash.

They’re not tool watches. But don’t confuse shine with softness — GRAFF’s best pieces have the mechanics to back it all up.

What They’re Making Now: Ultra-Luxury, Low-Volume, and Custom-Focused

GRAFF watches today fall into two clear lanes:

  1. High Jewelry Watches – For private clients. Diamonds, sapphires, one-offs, full pavé pieces with mechanical or quartz movements.

  2. Haute Horlogerie Masterpieces – Tourbillons, moonphases, planetariums, and skeletonized movements. Often paired with custom dials, enamel work, or full gem-set cases.

Distribution is tight — typically via boutique or private appointment. And if you’re seeing one on the secondary market? It probably cost someone six figures — and they wore it to exactly one gala.

Fed’s Take

Look — GRAFF watches aren’t for every collector. You’re not taking one on a dive trip. You’re not timing laps at Laguna Seca.

But if you appreciate luxury craftsmanship, movement innovation, and the kind of design confidence that most brands wouldn’t dare attempt? GRAFF deserves your attention.

I’ve handled a few tourbillon pieces that were shockingly well built. And while the diamonds might steal the show, the movements underneath are no joke. These aren’t slapped-together fashion watches. They’re serious Swiss complications — dressed to kill.

If you’re tired of hearing the same five brand names at every dinner and want something bespoke, technical, and utterly unapologetic, GRAFF is your move.

Not a Watch for Everyone. Just the Right One.

GRAFF doesn’t make watches for the forum crowd.
They make watches for the client who says, “I want that — but one of one.”

Delray Watch occasionally sees rare GRAFF watches — especially MasterGraff and GraffStar models.

Be the first to know when new GRAFF watches are available - subscribe for insider access here

 

Brand History: From Mayfair to Micro-Rotors

Founded by Laurence Graff in London in the 1960s, GRAFF became the name in diamonds — famous for cutting and selling some of the world’s most valuable stones. Over time, the brand expanded into watches, starting with high-jewelry quartz pieces, but quickly leveling up into in-house complications, tourbillons, and serious mechanical design.

By the 2010s, GRAFF had invested heavily in Geneva-based manufacturing — even developing proprietary calibers with respected complications manufacturers.

The result? A watch lineup that’s half red carpet, half R&D lab — and priced accordingly.

Collector Highlights: Not Just Bling — Actual Brains Behind the Sparkle

  • MasterGraff Tourbillon – Flying tourbillon. Micro-rotor. Geneva stripes. Sometimes encased in full pavé diamonds, sometimes in titanium. Shockingly legit.

  • GyroGraff – The flagship complication series. Features a 3D moonphase, double-axis tourbillon, and hand-painted enamel dials. Not just showpieces — serious mechanical art.

  • GraffStar Collection – Sport-luxury vibe with faceted bezels mimicking a diamond’s cut. Often seen with full diamond-set cases or meteorite dials.

  • ChronoGraff – Chronograph + power reserve + diamond indexes. Usually automatic, often with modular complications.

  • GMT / Dual Time Pieces – Featuring smart layouts with rotating globes or skeletonized hands. Often overlooked by collectors focused purely on traditional names.

Movements are usually in-house developed or built in collaboration with top-tier Swiss suppliers. Finishing can be shockingly high-end… just hidden behind a wall of diamonds.

Why Collectors Should Actually Care

  • GRAFF owns their diamond game — vertically integrated, from rough to set.

  • They partnered with legit Swiss movement makers — including for tourbillons, minute repeaters, and gyroscopic escapements.

  • Craftsmanship is next level — casework, gem-setting, and dial finishing are insane.

  • Rarity is real — most models are produced in low double-digit quantities or as unique pieces.

  • Pre-owned pricing is often way below retail — making these watches low-key value plays for collectors who don’t mind a little flash.

They’re not tool watches. But don’t confuse shine with softness — GRAFF’s best pieces have the mechanics to back it all up.

What They’re Making Now: Ultra-Luxury, Low-Volume, and Custom-Focused

GRAFF watches today fall into two clear lanes:

  1. High Jewelry Watches – For private clients. Diamonds, sapphires, one-offs, full pavé pieces with mechanical or quartz movements.

  2. Haute Horlogerie Masterpieces – Tourbillons, moonphases, planetariums, and skeletonized movements. Often paired with custom dials, enamel work, or full gem-set cases.

Distribution is tight — typically via boutique or private appointment. And if you’re seeing one on the secondary market? It probably cost someone six figures — and they wore it to exactly one gala.

Fed’s Take

Look — GRAFF watches aren’t for every collector. You’re not taking one on a dive trip. You’re not timing laps at Laguna Seca.

But if you appreciate luxury craftsmanship, movement innovation, and the kind of design confidence that most brands wouldn’t dare attempt? GRAFF deserves your attention.

I’ve handled a few tourbillon pieces that were shockingly well built. And while the diamonds might steal the show, the movements underneath are no joke. These aren’t slapped-together fashion watches. They’re serious Swiss complications — dressed to kill.

If you’re tired of hearing the same five brand names at every dinner and want something bespoke, technical, and utterly unapologetic, GRAFF is your move.

Not a Watch for Everyone. Just the Right One.

GRAFF doesn’t make watches for the forum crowd.
They make watches for the client who says, “I want that — but one of one.”

Delray Watch occasionally sees rare GRAFF watches — especially MasterGraff and GraffStar models.

Be the first to know when new GRAFF watches are available - subscribe for insider access here