Audemars Piguet Watches

Audemars Piguet: The Watch That Made Steel Feel Expensive

Let’s cut to the chase — Audemars Piguet didn’t just play the luxury watch game. They changed the rules.

Before the Royal Oak, “luxury” meant gold, thin cases, and leather straps. After the Royal Oak? Suddenly, a chunky steel sports watch with exposed screws could cost more than your car. And people lined up for it.

That’s the power of Audemars Piguet — one of the holy trinity of Swiss watchmaking, but also one of the few that’s managed to keep its edge while still playing the legacy game.

 

History: Born in the Vallée, Raised to Be Different

Founded in 1875 in Le Brassus — aka watchmaking Valhalla — AP has always been a family affair. Jules-Louis Audemars and Edward-Auguste Piguet teamed up to make complicated movements for other brands before deciding, “Hey, why not just put our name on the dial?”

And they didn’t mess around. Early APs were technical monsters — minute repeaters, chronographs, perpetual calendars — decades before most other brands caught up.

But the moment that truly reshaped horology came in 1972. Quartz watches were taking over. The Swiss industry was in panic mode. And AP said, “Let’s make an insanely expensive steel watch.”

Enter Gérald Genta, the most famous name in watch design, and the Royal Oak was born. Inspired by a diving helmet. Sized like a dinner plate (for the time). Priced like a gold watch. And unlike anything else on the market.

Everyone laughed… until they sold out.

Collector Highlights: More Than Just One Icon

Let’s be real — the Royal Oak gets all the love. And it deserves it. Models like the Ref. 5402 “Jumbo”, the Royal Oak Offshore, and all the boutique editions? Iconic. Especially the early Offshores with those wild 90s vibes — rubber-clad, mega-thick, and pure unapologetic flex.

But AP’s back catalog goes deep. Ultra-thin perpetual calendars, tourbillons, openworked calibers, grande complications — the kind of stuff that doesn’t just look good, it shows off AP’s technical chops.

And if you want real collector cred? Look into vintage AP dress watches. Slim, elegant, criminally underrated. A connoisseur’s move.

Why Collectors Care

Audemars Piguet checks every box:

  • Independent? ✅ Still family-owned.

  • Historic? ✅ Making chronographs since the 1800s.

  • Design-forward? ✅ Genta-designed icons.

  • Hype? ✅ Tons. But there’s real substance underneath.

The finishing is top-tier. The movements are technical art. And the designs? You can spot a Royal Oak from across the room. That hexagonal bezel hits like a signature.

Whether you’re chasing flex, finesse, or fine mechanics — AP brings it.

Current Collection: Big, Bold, and Still Breaking Rules

Today, AP is more Royal Oak than not. You’ve got:

  • Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin – modern takes on the OG icon.

  • Royal Oak Offshore – the beefed-up cousin, now with serious collector interest.

  • Code 11.59 – a controversial but technically impressive line (don’t shoot the messenger).

  • Concept Watches – tourbillons, GMTs, and materials that sound made-up. Bold, weird, and very AP.

They’re pushing materials, finishing, and complications into wild territory — but still doing it all in Le Brassus. That matters.

Fed’s Take

I have complicated feelings about AP.

On one hand, they’ve made some of the most significant watches of the 20th (and 21st) century. The Royal Oak is untouchable in terms of impact. The finishing on some of their higher-end pieces? Insane. Like, get-out-the-loupe-and-sit-down insane.

But on the other hand… the hype machine is real. There was a moment where you couldn’t walk into a club without seeing six guys in Offshores pretending not to check each other’s wrists. And the Code 11.59? Let’s just say it took a minute to grow into its price tag.

That said — when AP is firing on all cylinders, they’re in a league of their own. No question.

If you’ve got the wrist (and the wallet), there’s a version of AP that makes sense for almost any collector. Just make sure you're buying the watch — not the hype.

Ready to Level Up?

Whether you're hunting your first Royal Oak or looking for an under-the-radar dress piece that out-classes anything in its weight class, we’ve got you.

Browse Delray’s current selection of pre-owned Audemars Piguet watches — and if you’ve got one to sell, hit us up. We’re always buying.

Delray Watch has a rotating selection of pre-owned Audemars Piguet watches — pieces you won’t find sitting in mall boutiques or flexing on billboards.

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